I spent a couple of weeks in the Pondicherry area recently, and am super happy I did. The beaches were relaxing. The French food and architecture was also something I hadn’t seen in India before. As I was exploring, I was thinking about my family coming to visit in the coming months and wondering…
Is Pondicherry worth visiting? Yes. Pondicherry is a unique place in India. Unlike many cities, it was colonized by the French so you can still see the influence in the way the homes were built, the cultural, the art, and the food. You won’t find another city like it in India.
I know before I made the decision to visit Pondicherry, I wasn’t sure if I would like it and I wondered what to expect. If you’re still deciding, here are some reasons you should add it to your India trip itinerary…
1) The Beautiful Bay of Bengal
Each morning at sunrise I would hop on my scooter and ride to the beach. Promenade Beach or Rock Beach is almost a mile long and is a great place to see the sun come up over the horizon.
Families, runners, artists, meditators and yoga practitioners seem to feel the same because you will find a steady stream of people meandering along the beach or getting in a morning workout.
LOCAL TIP: Come before 9AM and the local road is closed, so you can enjoy the sound of the waves lapping on the rocks in peace.
2) The Biggest Gandhi Statue
If you’re walking along the beach in Pondicherry, you can’t miss the biggest statue of Gandhi in Asia and the third tallest statue of Gandhi in the world.
This 4-meter statue (over 13 feet) and is flanked by 8 granite pillars. The pillars were brought in from the Gingee Fort (also called Troy of the East), so they are symbolic of the deep history of the area.
It’s an impressive treat as you take your morning walk. Each morning I watched the tourists take selfies with Gandhiji and look up with respect in their eyes.
3) Strong French Coffee on the Beach
Not far from the Gandhi statue you can find a beachside restaurant serving food and more importantly for this traveler… coffee.
It’s not just the typical South Indian coffee as well (as good as it is), you can find an espresso maker here and order your favorite cappuccino.
I’m a cafe au lait guy, but they had a nice list of coffee and it’s pretty good. The views of the ocean make it even more delicious and it’s open 24 hours!
4) French Statues along the Beach
I used my trip as a chance to learn more about French history.
Along the beach, there is another cool statue of a French governor of Pondicherry. Francois Dupleix was a businessman who amassed a fortune investing in India. He was appointed as the political leader of all French colonies in India at one point.
Another French statue along the beach is Joan of Arc. As you walk the beach, you can see the back of this statue since she is facing the Our Lady of Angels Church (the fourth oldest church in Pondicherry).
It’s not a large statue and the park isn’t often open to the public, but if you do see the gates open, the garden is secluded from the city and a cool place to spend some time.
5) Luxurious Beach Hotels and Resorts
Next time in the city, I am going to splurge on a nice hotel along the water. There is nothing like waking up and watching the sun come up over the ocean from your room.
As I walked along the beach, there were countless rooms with views and decks overlooking the beach. I watched customers come out of their hotel for a beach walk along the quiet street.
I’m not sure if I want to go to a bigger resort or one of the quaint guesthouses but my family is coming to India next year and this is a must-see travel destination.
6) Wide Range of Beach Shopping
I need to buy a wide-brimmed beach hat to keep the sun off, and Pondicherry is a great place to go shopping.
As you walk along the beach, I see advertisements for boutiques, handicrafts, home decor, and more.
The Serenity Beach Bazaar is a chill market with locally made products, as well as food. The Providence Mall is a three-story mall with stores like Levis and Skechers.
7) French Homes, Architecture and Doors
In White Town, the French Quarter of Pondicherry, you can find the beach as well as French-inspired homes and architecture.
My favorite are the balconies, which remind me of New Orleans in the USA. The colorful doors were my second favorite aspect of the homes.
I also liked the big trees that shaded the streets, and it is surprisingly quiet here [there are a lot of NO HONKING signs.] Perfect for a walk, especially on Sundays when they clean the streets.
8) Nap-worthy Crepes
I love Indian food! I’ve been very happy eating it every day for months, however having a chance for some variety is too tempting.
I went to Crepe in Touch and had a crepe that was mouth-wateringly delicious! There are 16 different savory crepes from simple egg + cheese crepes to the bacon + potato + maitre d’hotel butter + fresh cream + cheese crepe that I had 🙂 That crepe almost knocked me out, my only gripe was they need hammocks for a nap after that one.
Next time I want to try a sweet crepe!
9) Noble Classic Churches
I had mentioned the Our Lady of Angels Church which is a very nice church near the beach.
The Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus is even more impressive. The gothic architecture is a bit spooky but the colorful glass panes of glass reflecting on the local worshippers make it super beautiful.
It’s a popular spot for local Christians, which make up about 3% of the population.
Immaculate Conception Cathedral is another beautiful church. This one was built by the King Louis XIV of France in the Portuguese style.
Mother Teresa has visited this church when she came to the city.
10) Colorful Murals and Street Art
“Everybody is at home in Pondy.” A mural proclaims as you walk along the beach with a colorful astronaut carrying a bag of groceries.
Pondicherry has a popular art scene and you can get a sense of it from the happy street art.
In the park near the beach, you can find elephants, dancing ladies, fish, guitars and more as locals play badminton.
11) Jawaharlal Nehru Statue
The first Prime Minister of India faces the Gandhi Statue with a scroll in his hand, taking a step forward.
He was another leader who had a big impact on India’s independence and today he overlooks the park I mentioned above with the murals.
Below his feet, locals play badminton and later there is a market (starts at 10 AM, but is most popular in the evening).
The Old Lighthouse is in the next lot as well, and it’s too bad they don’t renovate it, because it looks a bit rundown but is still a nice addition to the skyline near there. I want to climb it and see the local views.
12) Local Festivals in the Gandhi Thidal
The Nehru Statue and the street art I mentioned above is found in the Gandhi Thidal, an open space near the beach to hold events.
When I was there in August, the Fete De Pondicherry was being held. Pondicherry’s independence day is August 16th, a day after India celebrates as a nation.
You can also find International Yoga Festival, Heritage Fest, craft bazaars and more celebrated here.
13) A Chill Vibe at the Fishing Village
On the north end of the beach, you’ll notice a dirt track veering off from the main street. Follow that and you’ll walk into a local fishing village.
You can cross a bridge and see the fishing boats along a small creek. You will also see locals living their daily life here in a way that’s a touch slower than the rest of Pondicherry.
14) Delicious Filter Coffee at the Coffee Bars
On my first drive into Pondicherry, I was just cruising along Mahatma Gandhi Road looking for a busy coffee shop. That’s how you know they are good 🙂
I came upon a place with potential on a corner. It had a strong South Indian style coffee. For 20 RS, the man pours a dark black brew into a small cup with a shot of sugar. Then he mixes the milk, fills up your cup so it froths at the top, and then adds a bit more coffee on top.
It was delicious.
I’m sure you can find other places, and if you’re new to India, it may not be the coffee you are used to. It took me a bit to get used to the style, but I really enjoy it now.
15) Interesting Smells at the Fish Market
Do NOT come for the delicious smells, haha. It’s a bit fishy in there. But you can find fish straight from the Bay of Bengal.
I was taking a tour and the guide showed me fresh anchovies and plenty of other fish.
She bargained with a woman who had a bunch of fish in a grocery bag, they’re “fresh catch” she tells me.
If you want to make a fresh seafood dinner, this is the place to start.
16) Life of Pi Mosque
Pi Patel, the main character from the Life of Pi is from Pondicherry.
Moullah Mohammed Mosque is on a quiet back street in the Muslim Quarter with green trim. My guide tells me that this is where the Life of Pi was shot.
There are some super peaceful and beautiful homes in this quarter as well. It’s right behind the Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus church (walk towards the back on the south side and there will be an entrance on the side street. Take a right, and head that way).
17) Beautiful Homes in the Muslim Quarter
Pondicherry is known for the French Quarter, but the Muslim Quarter is also attractive. It’s quiet and the homes are traditional and beautiful.
The Muslim Quarter is on the south side of the city. The main streets are Moullah and Cazy street.
Here you’ll find traditional homes with very cool shaded second floor patios. I like the railings, many have a beautiful pattern.
18) Ancient Statues at the Pondicherry Museum
Nerd out at the Pondicherry Museum, and get an inside look at dynasties that rule Southern India, as well as a few other oddities.
The stone and bronze sculptures are from the Chola and Pavalla Dynasties. They were dug up about 5 miles away at Arikamedu, a port city that used to trade with the Romans.
There’s also a fossil of a crocodile and a tree that is 200 million years old.
It’s a quick visit and not far from the beach and White Town, so a nice stop on a day trip. It will give you a broader context and history of the city.
19) Find Enlightenment at Sri Aurobindo Ashram
In a quiet-ish neighborhood in White Town, there’s a modern building shaded by trees and if the ashram is open, you’ll probably find a line of seekers waiting to get inside.
Sri Aurobindo was a philosopher and political activist who spent some time in jail. While in prison he had spiritual experiences, and after his release, he moved to Pondicherry to focus on spiritual work.
While in India, he met a woman from Paris, Mirra Alfassa, who is commonly known as The Mother. Their partnership and the community surrounding them started the ashram in 1926.
20) An Elephant at the Ganesh Temple
The Manakula Vinayagar Temple is an impressive temple that is popular with locals and tourists.
In the entrance, there is a mural with the star of the temple, Ganesh, and an entourage of 28 other figures. Look up as you walk in the entrance and you will be entranced.
You also may be able to see the temple elephant Lakshmi, who visits the temple sometimes.
21) Chocolate Croissants
Can you tell I was into the French food in Pondicherry? If you want a delicious chocolate croissant, the Auroville Bakery would be a top-destination. It’s about 15 minutes from the city center in a nearby experiment town of Auroville.
However, what’s cool about Pondicherry is you can get great croissants in many of the local bakeries.
On a 5-minute walk down a side street, I saw two bakeries with decent looking chocolate croissants, and delicious tastes.
22) Meditate in Bharathi Park
Bharathi Park is near the beach and full of local people walking and relaxing and meditating. It’s big enough that you can find a quiet spot away from everyone else, or you can sit near the Greco-Roman statue circle in the center and people watch.
23) Not too Big, Not too Small
Pondicherry has a population of 1.2 million people, which is big enough to offer plenty to do on a short trip. It has a beautiful beach, nice homes and some shopping.
However it’s not the sprawling rat race you might find in Delhi (18.6 million) or Mumbai (18.4 million).
Pondicherry is a chill place that you can see in a day if you pack your day full. Or spend the week leisurely walking through the French Quarter and along the beach, while stocking up on delicious French culinary delights.
Related Questions:
Pondicherry vs Goa?
If you want a top-notch beach vacation, then Goa wins. If you want to visit a unique French-inspired quaint city, then Pondicherry wins.
If you want to fully enjoy chill beach life, then head to Goa. The beaches are some of the most beautiful in India or maybe the world. You have lots of options for beaches as well, since there are around 50 beaches to choose from.
If you want to party, Goa is the winner here too. North Goa is popular with ravers and electronic dance music, and you can find drum parties on the beach until late into the night.
If you want a more relaxed experience in a smaller city, then Pondicherry is for you. Some of the beaches aren’t great for swimming, but they are nice to sit near a pool all day at a luxurious hotel.
Pondicherry also has beautiful French homes and foods. You just can’t find some of the foods in Pondicherry anywhere else.
What is the Best Time to Visit Pondicherry?
December and January are the most popular. It is winter time here, and the nights can be cool (sweater weather) but the days are still hot.
December through March is pretty good to visit. The temperatures range from 60 degrees F to almost 90 degrees F.
Avoid November though, since that is the peak of the monsoon season. Avoid April through June because the temperatures regular hit 105 °F or even 110 °F.
August through October would be a bit warm, but there are fewer crowds. I visited in August, and had a great time. I would spend the morning on the beach, then have a nice breakfast. By 10 am it was pretty hot, so I relaxed at the hotel or did some online work (which I like $$$ :). Then in the evening, I could head out for dinner.